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An exquisitely prepared Homard Bleu was placed in front of me, accented by an aromatic sauce that turned the umami level up to full volume. Paired with a Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan Rouge 2017, it was just one of the sublime moments of a Chateau Haut-Brion wine pairing dinner crafted by executive chef Teruki Murashima of the newly minted one Michelin-starred Heritage by Kei Kobayashi at The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo.
Bright and early the next day, Murashima-san traded his chef’s whites for a casual white tee and gold chains thrown in for good measure. He was taking us to his playground — Toyosu Fish Market — and as soon as we arrived, he walked with a swagger of someone who knows it inside and out. It’s rare for mere mortals to be able to access Tokyo’s premier seafood market, let alone have a top chef who visits twice a week guide you inside.
First things first, I made sure I wasn’t getting run over by the whizzing yellow trucks that seem to appear out of nowhere. Then I took in the dizzying array of ultra-fresh seafood laid out impeccably: hairy crab, kinmedai, octopus, seasonal ayu, trays of uni… everything you dream of finding on your plate is here. Murashima-san stops at a stall and chats with the owners, who allowed his colleague, Sachi, to buy a single fish for the first time. Why is this so extraordinary? Toyosu Fish Market isn’t the kind of place where you can stroll in and buy what you want. It is such a closed-shop that it takes years to convince vendors to sell you something.
Then our group followed Murashima-san to his tuna specialist, where large portions of tuna belly were on display behind glass akin to museum pieces. Here they sliced akami and chu-toro for us to try right there and then. This gleaming piece of tuna is the holy grail — it doesn’t get fresher (or better) than this. Thanks to the trust between fisherman and chef, I was able to savour this once-in-a-lifetime treat; it’s also this bond that ensures the best ingredients are reserved for the restaurants at The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo.
LOCAL LENS
The tuna and I met again, this time at Hinokizaka, the hotel’s Japanese restaurant offering teppanyaki, tempura and sushi under one roof. In an elegant tatami room decorated with hundred-year-old Omiya bonsai, chef de cuisine Hisao Ishida carefully sliced the fish — a task that you’re only allowed to do after 10 years of practice because of the reverence the Japanese pay to maguro. He crafted two delicate and satisfying nigiri, which in the vein of saving the best for last, was offered at the end of the impressive tasting course.
Before that finale, the kaiseki meal had plenty of other highlights, including a light-as-air nasu tempura (worth returning for this alone) and a wagyu dish paired with sake aptly named “Goes well with beef”. I can say with certainty that our group left the restaurant high on all the fine food.
This entire experience was more than just fancy meals but a true insight into Japanese culinary culture. We all travel to enjoy experiences we can’t have at home, but as travel becomes commodified, there is a push to seek the rare and unrepeatable. This is the premise of the limited-edition Luxury Group Dining Series by Marriott International, which kicked off in Tokyo in late September.
Themed ‘Origins of Craft’, the regional dining series runs until the end of November and stops at The St. Regis Bali, The Ritz-Carlton Melbourne, The Athenee Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Bangkok, The St. Regis Mumbai, and finally at the JW Marriott Hotel Singapore South Beach.
“It’s all about preserving and promoting cultural heritage through the lens of food,” said Karl Hudson, Area Vice President – Japan and Guam, during the opening dinner in Tokyo. The Luxury Group Dining Series is exclusive in nature but open to everyone — anyone can book the experiences while Marriott Bonvoy members can bid using their loyalty points.
CHEERS TO THAT
Given Asia’s thriving bar scene, it’s only right that a culinary series of this calibre also has a mixology component. Sitting at the simply named The Bar, award-winning bartenders Kentaro Wada of The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo and Yosuke Asano from The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto presented four cocktails inspired by the Nakasendo Way — an ancient route connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto.
I was intrigued by Karuizawa, which had royal milk tea, a drink I always buy when in Japan. Apparently, John Lennon used to visit a cafe in Karuizawa to have an apple pie and royal milk tea; this tidbit served as an inspiration for this drink.
Guest shifts are part and parcel of a bar’s calendar, a chance for bartenders to play again and let their creativity shine. “At every guest shift, we always aim to bring the Republic experience to wherever we may be in the world, allowing our guests to journey through a menu that presents stories and anecdotes of the 1960s,” said Kelvin Saquilayan, head bartender of Republic at The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia. “At the upcoming guest shift at The Koi Bar at The St Regis Mumbai we will be presenting four cocktails: The Greatest, Headliner, Visions of Stella, and Speed of Sound.”
Another renowned mixologist from Singapore, Giovanni Graziadei of The Singapore EDITION’s Punch Room, is heading to Bangkok to collaborate with Allium’s Chef de Cuisine Remi Verrier on an avant-garde cocktail pairing. “The menu reimagines classic cocktails using premium ingredients and artisanal touches, like our specially curated Tanamera coffee blend and luxurious pairings such as Oscietra caviar,” said Graziadei. “We strive to select the ideal spirit for each classic; for instance, Belvedere 10 vodka pairs beautifully with caviar thanks to its creamy texture.”
The first-ever Luxury Group Dining Series travels to six destinations with activations in 23 restaurants and bars, altogether showcasing the talents of over 55 culinary and beverage talents across Marriott’s luxury hotel portfolio. This means there’s plenty for serious gourmands to chew on, and judging from the success of the events in Tokyo, there will hopefully be a second edition in 2025.
The series is only halfway through its journey, which concludes at the JW Marriott Hotel Singapore South Beach on Nov 29 to Dec 1. One of the highlighted events is a collaboration dinner featuring chef Paul Lau from two Michelin star Tin Lung Heen of The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and chef Pak Chee Yit from Madame Fan.